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History of Luanda
"It is said that when the first Portuguese arrived in Luanda sometime during the 16th century, they first met some local fishermen on the beach of Ilha. When they asked 'what is the name of this place?' whilst pointing to the ground, the fishermen's answer was "Luanda," which actually means 'fishing basket'."
Tanguy Cosmao, Vivendas e Predios, Luanda

The history of Luanda is very long, and to an extent, quite complicated. In fact, Luanda is the oldest European city in Africa south of Sahara. The above quote is one explanation of how Luanda got it's name, another explanation is that the city of Luanda is named after the African word Loanda which means "flat land." Yet, another theory assumes that the name Luanda is, like previously, derived from the African word Loanda, which was the name of a group of people who lived in these lands prior to the construction of a city. (In fact, the Loanda people existed and were semi-independent but paying taxes to the Manikongo of Kongo)

The city of Luanda was started in 1575, on February 20, when Paulo Dias de Novais landed with seven ships, 400 soldiers and 100 families on the Ilha de Luanda. It was not, however, until the next year, when the Portuguese settlers moved across the bay of Luanda, that the city of São Paulo de Loanda was really started and in 1605 the town was granted the status of a city. This makes Luanda the first city to be founded by Europeans in sub-Saharan Africa.

By this time, Luanda contained, among some administrative buildings and private housing, a Cathedral and a Jesuit Church. Luanda had also already a good economy based in slave trade. This, however, attracted the Dutch who controlled the area from 1641 to 1648 when Salvador Correa de Sa conquered the lands back. To celebrate the victory, the name of the city was changed to São Paulo da Assuncao and a few years after, a large area was granted Commandor de Sa for his military achievements.

During the later half of the 1600's, the Portuguese worked with the construction of Luanda and by the end of this century, Luanda was a well planned town with two parts: The Citade Alta where the upper-class, the colonial power and the Church was based and the lower areas where traders and pombeiros (people who captured slaves for a living) had based their homes and business. Not only white men lived in Luanda, many native Africans had houses and apartments here too.

In 1779, the two parts of Luanda were linked by paved roads, after the construction of paved roads had begun under the rule of Sousa Coutinho. The period under Governor Coutinho also brought many new public buildings to Luanda.

Image of Luanda in mid 1800's, from "Two trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo" by Richard F. Burton

Jumping well over 100 years, we would still find Luanda to be a quite small city. This is partly because of a lack of water, which has always been an issue in Luanda. The first serious large scale project to reduce this problem was conceived by the Dutch who wanted to dig a canal from the River Kwanza to Luanda. This plan, however, was never put to life and the problems continued until 1889 when Governor Brito Capelo opened the gates of a aqueduct which led water from the Bengo river to Luanda. This solved the problem and became one of the first actions in a series of improvements to Luanda. Soon, new roads and buildings were constructed all over Luanda, which had been named 'the Paris of Africa' for its growth in 1872.

This growth in population and living standards, together with the abolition of slavery in 1836 led to an increase in popular culture, interest for African traditions and thus a nationalist spirit.

Further into the new century, the 1900's, Angola had developed into a thriving colony with factories, production plants and farming. Luanda, the capital of this wonder, was a major city of trade with many companies and much activity. Now also the native Africans were able to take part in the trade as the end of slavery also had brought good schools to the blacks. Most of the wealthy Angolans today are descendants of successful businessmen from this time.

The development in Angola was great, during the 1940's, the number of registered buildings increased by 280% from 2700. The new buildings included everything from luxurious buildings in Vila Alice and Miramar, to working-class housing. The later was paid for by Fundo dos Bairros Operarios (The Working-class Neighbourhood Fund). The enormous economic growth in Angola did not stop, during the 1960's, almost 900 new industrial units were started. During the 1970's, new hotels were constructed all over Luanda, especially large business-hotels such as the Tropico.

Luanda as seen from Cemitério de Alta das Cruzes in 2003

Suddenly, though, in the first half of the 1970's, the development crashed into a civil war which would destroy both the Angolan economy and partly the Angolan charm. Luanda is today much alike other poor cities around the world and sadly, to a large extent destroyed by a war.

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